Life on the frozen tundra of South Dakota Life on the frozen tundra of South Dakota

Day One - 9/12/2017

Day One - 9/12/2017

The alarm went off at 5:30 and I got up. My original plan was to get ready, eat a little breakfast, stop and get gas and be rolling by about 7 AM. Well, that was the plan. As it turned out I still wasn't feeling well and was moving slow. I did all of the above, but it was closer to 7:30 by the time I stopped at the gas station. Normally I try and gas up the night before I leave. Between the way I was feeling the previous evening and being engrossed in watching the Minnesota Vikings kick the New Orlean's Saints metaphorical tail in the season-opening game, I decided to wait until I was heading out of town in the morning to get gas.

Getting gas before I left Sioux Falls.

Coincidentally, the last time I rode to Wisconsin the Vikings were also playing the Saints on the season opener football game the night before I left. Weird. That year the Saints won in spectacular fashion, though.

Anyway, you're here to read about motorcycle riding not football. After I filled my tank I hit the road. The interstate from Sioux Falls west to the Minnesota border was full of road construction. When I had driven on that stretch a week earlier, traffic was moving really slow. It now approaching 8 AM I figured traffic would be quite thick (although most would probably be moving in the opposite direction with commuters coming to Sioux Falls for work.) Nevertheless, I decided to take back roads into Minnesota to avoid the congestion. It probably wouldn't be any faster, but it would be better on my mind.

Taking back roads to Luverne, MN

I rode down Sycamore Avenue, past Washington High School where my son was now old enough to attend (weird that he's growing up) and headed out of Sioux Falls on Madison Street. About 6 miles down the road I reached the town of Brandon, which due to the growth of Sioux Falls is now pretty much a suburb. At their closest point they are less than a mile from each other. In Brandon there is a lookout tower at the top of a ridge. It had been a couple of years since I'd climbed the tower, so I decided to stop and snap some pictures. I decided there was plenty of dull interstate ahead so I might as well grab the scenic pictures while I could.

The lookout tower in Brandon.

From the lookout tower looking southeast.

From the lookout tower looking south.

From the lookout tower looking down.

From the lookout tower looking west.

From the lookout tower looking north into the town of Brandon.

After my early break, I continued east on the highway. Traffic was getting very sparse now that it was past 8 AM and I was on a back road. I passed the town of Valley Springs, SD, which is literally a couple hundred feet from the Minnesota border. As I passed through, I thought about our Model T. Earlier this year we had learned that it had a cracked engine block and a few other issues such as a bad radiator and a failing magneto. The problems were large enough that nobody in our family wanted to or had time to tackle them. So we found a guy who knows how to work on Model Ts and brought our car to him. He happens to live in Valley Springs, and his shop is actually directly next to the road where I was riding. So as I passed by I gave a ceremonious wave to the car which was hidden inside his building. Yes, I'm weird.

I continued on through the small towns of Manley, MN, and Beaver Creek until I reached the town of Luverne, MN. I have some history with the town of Luverne. In the spring of 1989 I bought a trailer house in Luverne. I was renting my first apartment at the time and was already looking towards the future financially. I reasoned that I was just "throwing money" away on rent when I could be building equity. A guy I worked with had a trailer house he was selling and I reasoned that long term it would be cheaper to buy his house than pay rent.

I'll give my reasoning a "B-" and my execution a "D+". As it turns out I hadn't considered all of the factors. Luverne was 25 miles from Sioux Falls, and I was still working back in SF. That meant I was driving at least 50 miles per day, and spending at least an hour commuting. All that gas quickly ate into any housing savings, not to mention the added time I was sitting in the car every day.

In order to further cut my expenses, I had a friend move in with me. Again, this looked good on paper but within a matter of months came to the realization that he was a psycho and while we worked pretty well as friends our personalities and lifestyles made us terrible roommates. Within about 3 months of moving in together I came as close to a nervous breakdown as I ever want to be. Thankfully for the both of us he moved out soon afterwards. It was worth the money he stiffed me just to be out of the situation.

Anyway, less than 6 months after I purchased the house I realized that commuting from Luverne wasn't ideal, and without a roommate my living expenses were a bit higher than I liked. For a short time I investigated the possibility of moving the trailer to Sioux Falls, but decided I would still have a too expensive house than I could comfortably afford. I decided to sell. Thankfully I had done some cosmetic improvements to my trailer during the time I lived there and was able to sell the house to the first person who came and looked at it for almost twice what I initially paid. That profit is the reason I gave my execution a "D+" rather than an "F".

So now that you know that story of my life that you didn't care about... as I rode through Luverne I made a slight detour and rode through the trailer park where my old house sat. The park was hardly recognizable. The woman who bought my trailer had it moved to Sioux Falls, and a different trailer was now parked in my old lot. The trees were 30 years bigger than when I lived there. Not a whole lot triggered any memories for me. After the slight detour through the park I turned back onto the main drag and continued onward.

The big cup of coffee I had chugged before I left the house was now calling to me. I decided that I'd better make a pit stop before I got on the interstate. At the edge of town was a McDonalds. I pulled in and used their restroom. The morning was a bit chilly so I was bundled up in my full leathers. I didn't feel like taking everything off just to use the john. As I walked through the restaurant towards the restrooms in the back I could tell that everyone was staring at me. This was a small town, and the regulars who gathered every morning for coffee now had a new "freak of the week" as the topic of their discussion.

Luverne, MN to Albert Lea, MN

The next stretch of road was completely unremarkable. Interstate 90 across southern Minnesota may be the dullest stretch of highway in America. It's not as barren as Wyoming. It's not as flat as Kansas. It's not as sparsely populated as the Dakotas. But for some reason I feel this portion of highway to be mind-numbing. Perhaps it's because I've traveled it so often in my life.

I wasn't on the highway too long before nature called once again about 20 miles west of Luverne. I stopped at a rest stop for another bathroom break and to remove my jacket as the morning temps were rising. While I was motionless I snapped a few pictures. I also struck up a conversation with an older gentleman and his wife. He told me about the motorcycle he used to own "back in the day."

At the rest stop near Worthington, MN

A picnic area at the rest stop near Worthington, MN

The parking lot at the rest stop near Worthington, MN

Looking at my watch, I was making slow progress with all the back roads and stops I had made thus far. But now that my bladder was empty and I had a long stretch of dull interstate ahead of me, I started to make up some time. My original plan was to get gas in Blue Earth, MN which is about 140 miles from Sioux Falls. When I got to Blue Earth, I decided I had enough gas in my tank (both motorcycle-wise and body wise) to push it a little farther to Albert Lea. I figured the more I rode on I-90 now, the less I'd have to ride later.

Scenery in southern MN.

I stopped at Albert Lea for gas, another restroom break and a slice of pizza. It was late morning and I was feeling some hunger pangs, but I didn't want to stop for lunch so early. I was banking on the pizza buying me an hour or two until I could get off the interstate and find somewhere more suitable for lunch than a gas station. I also removed my sweatshirt as the day was starting to warm.

After topping off my tank I was back on the interstate. Thankfully I only had a few more miles to go until I would get off the super-slab and start exploring back roads the rest of the way to my destination that evening in the Wisconsin Dells.

Albert Lea, MN to Cresco, IA

On the east side of Austin, MN (home of SPAM canned meat) I got off the interstate and started taking back roads. My plan was to continue east though upper Iowa, and then head up the west shore of the Mississippi river to LaCrosse.

Highway 58 south of Austin, MN

I didn't make it too far down the highway, however, before my progress was slowed by road construction. A "flagman" was standing there with the two-sided sign, and the side that said "stop" was facing me. I pulled over, and after a minute determined we were going to be sitting a while so I turned off my bike and got off to stretch a little. The road construction dude, having nothing better to do as he stood there, eyed me with curiosity.

A semi pulled up behind me, and I watched cars stack up behind it. Cars were coming up fast and then jamming on the brakes when they'd see the line of vehicles at a standstill waiting for the construction. I guess gridlock isn't something drivers are used to seeing in rural Iowa.

We continued to wait. The sun was beating down on me, but the only thing I had left to remove was my chaps, which also meant I'd have to take off my boots to get them off. I didn't know how long I'd be waiting in this line of cars and I didn't want to be standing there bootless with chaps on one leg when suddenly it was time to go. I decided to tough it out with the sun.

Finally, after at least 10 minutes of waiting I could see the long line of cars approaching led by the pilot car. The line was long enough that I didn't get on the bike right away once I saw them. I stood for another 5 minutes or so as cars continued to pass in the opposite direction. I figured that I'd be sitting on the bike all day so I might as well stand while I had the opportunity. Finally all of the approaching cars passed and the pilot car led us through the construction area. As it turned out, I would have had plenty of time to remove my chaps but hindsight is 20/20.

Stopped for road construction.

When planning the day's route, I thought Decorah, IA would make a good stop for lunch. I was running behind schedule and it was going to be almost another hour until I made it there. I was hungry in need of a break so I opted to stop in Cresco, IA at a combination Long John Silvers/A&W. I'm not overly partial to either restaurant, but I didn't know what other options lie ahead so I decided I could find something to eat. Before I went inside I removed my chaps which brought sweet cooling relief to my legs. It was really warming up now with temps probably pushing 90 degrees and a cloudless sky.

Lunch in Cresco, IA

I was intending to just get a reasonably sized meal. No need to gorge myself. As usual I threw that idea out the window when I saw the menu. There was a chicken, fish and shrimp combo on sale so I ordered it. It was way more food than I needed but me being me, I ate it all anyway.

I ate my meal and relaxed for a bit. I still had a long journey ahead of me, though, and I didn't want to arrive at my hotel too late in the evening so once I was done eating I got back on the bike and continued to ride east.

Cresco, IA to LaCrosse, WI

I arrived at the town of Decorah. If I'd ever been to Decorah previously it was when I was very young and unaware where my parents had brought me. I had an old boss that had taken a job at Luther College in Decorah, so that was my biggest known connection to this town. Decorah is very pretty, nestled in the hills created by the Upper Iowa River. I decided to pull over and snap some pictures of the area. Unfortunately as happens to often when I'm traveling, by the time I realized, "hey, this place would make for some nice photos" I was past the spot that triggered the thought and the photos I do get are less spectacular.

Decorah, IA

Decorah, IA

Decorah, IA

I continued westward inching my way closer to the Mississippi river. The closer I got, the more interesting the scenery became. There were lots of little hills and small bluffs such as these.

A small bluff in northeastern Iowa.

The scenery was getting more interesting.

After a long day of riding I finally reached the mighty Mississippi. I still had a lot of riding in front of me, but my hope was the scenery would make it more interesting. The town of Lansing sits at the intersection of highway 9 and 26 where I turned north to ride up the west side of the river. I snapped a few photos in Lansing.

Lansing, IA

A giant ice cream cone and an old Standard sign in Lansing, IA

Lansing, IA

As I've previously mentioned, in the past I've ridden this same area on the east side of the river. I've also ridden this same highway on the west side, but starting at Winona, MN heading up to St. Paul. This is the first time I'd been on the west side of the river in Minnesota south of I-90. It's a very scenic area and didn't have a whole lot of traffic, which made for a beautiful ride.

Heading up the west side of the Mississippi.

I rode highway 26 all the way up to LaCrescent, MN. It was about 35 miles and a nice, relaxing stretch of road. I didn't worry about making good time, I just kept a relaxing pace and stopped to snap a picture whenever I saw something interesting.

LaCrescent is a sister city to LaCrosse, only on the Minnesota side of the river. At LaCrescent I crossed over the bridge into Wisconsin to begin the final leg of the day's journey. First, I stopped at a gas station to top off my tank, empty my bladder and promptly re-fill it with a diet Dr. Pepper.

LaCrosse, WI to Wisconsin Dells, WI

Leaving LaCrosse, I headed south on highway 14. This highway branched south east through the town of Coon Valley. I rode through Coon Valley back in 2010, but I came in on a different highway and left town on a different highway than today.

In Coon Valley I got off the main highway and took county road "P". Many of the smaller rural county roads in Wisconsin simply have a letter designation, or in some cases two letters. I had found highway P as a recommended motorcycle road when doing some trip planning the previous day. It turned out to be a pretty neat little road with lots of scenery and very little traffic.

County Road P.

A cemetery along county road P.

Scenery along county road P.

Scenery along county road P.

Scenery along county road P.

Scenery along county road P.

Proving there are crazy people in Wisconsin, I happened across a ski jump. Although it's fun to watch on TV, people who willingly launch themselves off these ramps are insane. I would never do that. There was a sign nearby stating that this was a private ski jump. Somehow I doubt there are people lining up to plunge to their death from this contraption.

A ski jump.

County road P came to an end at highway 131, which I then proceeded to take north. At this point I was starting to get tired and picked up the pace a bit. I didn't stop for too many pictures, just rode along at the speed limit and enjoyed the scenery.

131 passed by the west side of the Kickapoo Valley Reserve, and the Wildcat Mountain state park. At the town of Ontario it took a slight jog to the right and then headed north again. I followed this highway all the way up to Wilton, at which point I turned east on highway 71.

Highway 71

I had a little mix up at the town of Elroy. There was a "Y" intersection where 71 merged with 82 which merged with main street. My map had me leaving Elroy on county highway "O". I pulled over and consulted my map, but it didn't have close enough detail for me to know exactly what was going on. A guy sitting on a lawn chair in front of his garage eyed me suspiciously as I analyzed my map. My phone wouldn't connect to a cell tower, so I couldn't use the GPS to figure out where I was at. I finally took a guess and picked a direction.

After about a mile I saw a sign and realized I was heading north on 82. So I turned around and made my way back. Going the other direction I was able to find the proper signs that led me to county highway "O".

Now I was on the home stretch. I followed highway "O" east for about 10 miles until I came to highway 12.

County Highway O

Highway 12 took me all the way into the Dells. I pulled into town, then found my hotel out on the east side of main street.

The Trails End Motel

The Trails End Motel

I went into the office and checked in. The hotel owner was a nice guy. We chatted for a few minutes. As it turned out, this was the last week the hotel would be open. I was one of the few guests staying during the week. Beginning Friday the city was having a big beer festival and the hotel was completely booked solid for Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. After that, they were closing for the season. So apparently I postponed my trip about as far as I could have.

I went down and checked out my room. Not bad at all.

My room in the Dells.

My room in the Dells.

It was now nearly 7 PM. I unpacked and relaxed a little. I found the Minnesota Twins game on TV, which made me happy. I decided to go grab some supper, then come back to the room and watch the game. I headed a few blocks down main street and ate at Famous Dave’s.

Famous Dave’s in the Wisconsin Dells

I'd eaten at this Famous Dave’s before. It wasn't that great, but I figured seeing as most Famous Dave’s restaurants I've visited have been very good, it may have just the particular day I visited. Well, unfortunately that proved incorrect. My meal was average, bordering on slightly below average. Now with two data points under my belt I probably won't return to this particular location again in the future.

After I ate I headed back to the motel stopping to gas up. When I started the bike at the restaurant it seemed hesitant to turn over. Then it seemed even more hesitant after I filled the tank. This was a bit disconcerting, but sometimes my bike is hard to start when the engine is hot. I was hoping that it was just due to riding all day.

Back at the hotel room I turned on the baseball game only to discover the channel gave me a message stating, "This channel is not part of your subscription package. Please contact your provider to gain access to this channel." What? I know I was watching the beginning of the game before I left. The only thing I can guess is that the cable company gave me a "sample" of the channel for a few minutes before it revoked access. I kept checking throughout the rest of the week but it never came back.

So I called my wife and checked in with her. Then I read the book that I'd brought. I also watched the online score updates of the baseball game (at least the internet was working). As it turned out the Twins destroyed the Padres 16-0, hitting at least one home run in each of the first seven innings. Bummer. That would have been a fun game to see.

As I still wasn't feeling all that great from my sickness, I packed it in a bit early turning out the light around 10:30.

Continue on to day two...

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