My alarm went off at 6:00 AM. The temp had cooled to the mid 70's, but the humidity was still there. I rolled out of bed and began preparations. One thing I noted about sleeping in a tent versus staying in a hotel, is that it takes me longer to get ready to go. I had to deflate my air mattress, roll up my sleeping bag, fold up the tent, etc, then strap it all down on the bike. By 7:00, I was ready to hit the road. Well, actually, I was ready to hit the breakfast buffet.
Unfortunately, the campsite office was still closed. They didn't open until 9:00. Not wanting to hang around until 9, I folded up some cash and a note explaining why they never saw me and slid it through their mail slot. The police have yet to contact me, so the campground owners must have received it and found it acceptable.
I had heard about "Pancake's Family Restaurant" on the internet as the place to eat breakfast in Eureka Springs. It was located about a mile up the road from Kettle Campground, right on highway 62. I decided to give it a go.
Admittedly, it wasn't what I expected. It was more of a small-town cafe environment than a restaurant, and the buffet consisted of two small steam tables full of food. However, the price was reasonable and the food was pretty good, so I'm certainly not going to complain about it. As I ate I studied my map and prepared myself mentally for the day.
Shortly before 8:00, I was on the road. I was encouraged to actually be on the road early for a change! That never seems to happen to me.
My first leg of the journey would take me on back roads over to Fayetteville then down "old 71" (before they made a new one that's more like an interstate) and over to Fort Smith. From there I was going to head into Oklahoma for a gas stop, and so I can add that state to my list.
The ride was beautiful. The first thing I noticed, however, was that it was difficult to get photos of everything I wanted, as the roads had very little in the way of shoulders, and the curves meant you were often sitting on the road blind to someone who might come whizzing around it. Nevertheless, I attempted to photograph as much as I could. Believe me, though, that I didn't get nearly all of the pictures of the beautiful scenery I wanted to photograph.
About halfway between Eureka Springs and Fayetteville I hit rain. Not real hard rain, but steady. However, in the east I could see blue sky so I decided to hold off on the rain gear. It was already getting pretty warm, so I figured if I got a little wet I would probably dry off soon enough.
After about twenty minutes, the rain stopped. As I got closer to Fayetteville, I noticed the houses got nicer and nicer. About ten miles out on the east side, there is a very, very upscale gated community. Apparently things are going well for some people in Fayetteville.
In Fayetteville itself, I missed a turn and wound up riding down a residential street. I figured it out soon enough and was able to backtrack and find my road again without wasting too much time. I cut around the south end, which appeared to be the industrial park, and found old 71. From there I headed south.
One thing I noticed about the small towns in this area was that very few businesses are able to survive specializing in one market. The signs on most places had numerous services or types of goods listed. Among the better combinations I noticed were "computer repair and short-term loans", "auto parts and intimate ladieswear" and my personal favorite, "pre-school, daycare and fireworks." I really should have gotten a picture of that one.
Further down on 71, by Alma, there was a reservoir and dam are that gave some very nice views.
At Alma, I was planning to catch the highway west into Fort Smith, where I would get on the interstate around the south end of the town. My map, however, wasn't real clear on what highway number this was. I came to the junction of I-40 and decided that because I was only a few miles out, I'd just take I-40 to Fort Smith.
And now a quick note regarding Fort Smith: I had been there three or four times previously in my life while traveling, and not once had I ever had a good experience. The hotels I had stayed at were horrible, the food was unremarkable and the place had generally left a bad taste in my mouth. Sorry if you're a Fort Smith native, but I choose to no longer darken the borders of that town. So, rather than going through town I took the southern bypass around it.
I then entered Oklahoma. A new state to stamp on the tank of my bike! I rode a few miles in, then stopped for gas.
At this gas stop I had my second run-in with a pay-at-the-pump system. After about two trips in to talk to the attendant, I finally was able to fill my tank.
The sun was out in full-force now, so I took a moment in the restroom to liberally douse myself with sunscreen. I grabbed a soda and then headed back out on the road.
Originally I was going to ride a few miles south in Oklahoma, then make my way back into Arkansas before picking up 71 again. However, once again my map wasn't real clear on the road numbers, and the road signs were even less clear. I decided just to head back the way I came and get on 71 south from there.
This stretch of road wasn't bad, but wasn't as twisty as the stretch I'd been on earlier in the day. I buzzed along and enjoyed the sights of the area.
As I stopped for this picture, two bikes went by. I wound up catching them and following them for quite a while. On the north side of Mena, the lead bike pulled over. The second bike followed. I slowed way down and was looking for signs of trouble to see if they needed some help. As I went by them, a police car with its lights and siren on went by in the other lane and scared the bejeebers out of me. I had been so focused on thinking that something was wrong with the other bikers that I hadn't noticed that they'd actually pulled over for an emergency vehicle. And here I was in the middle of the road nearly getting run over by the thing.
Now I felt like a complete doofus. I had tentatively scheduled a break in Mena, so I quickly looked for somewhere to pull in and get off the road. I just knew the other two riders (who were now right behind me) were thinking I was a complete idiot. I saw a Sonic, and quickly pulled in. Unfortunately, they also were planning a stop and pulled in behind me. I went around to the other side and hid behind a menu. Boy, I felt stupid.
The heat was blazing. I was due to eat lunch, but because of how hot it was I really didn't feel like eating. I did, however, feel like having a malt. So I ordered a chocolate malt and a big cup of ice water. I relaxed as much as I could in the heat and enjoyed the cold malt.
Once I was finished, I decided to hit the road and hopefully get ahead of those two other riders. I placed my cup of ice water up behind my windshield (where I often carry drinks.) I pulled out of the Sonic, and looked in my rear view mirror to see those same two bikers pulling out behind me. Gaaa! I can't get away.
South of Mena, the speed limit picked up. As I approached 55 mph, the wind must have caught the lid of my ice water just right, and the lid and straw came flying up and over me. I glanced in the rear view mirror and watched it fly into the face of the biker behind me.
Great! So now I'm not only a person who has no regard for authorities, but I'm also a litterbug! I just couldn't win with these two. Much to my relief, about five miles down the road they turned.
The road got twistier and more interesting as I tooled along. I rode and enjoyed the sights, sounds and smells of rural Arkansas. Is it me, or does every single person in Arkansas have a perpetual garage sale? Also I noticed an interesting phenomenon: the uncovered foam cup of icewater occasionally sprayed out a drop or two of cool mist that felt really good in the intense heat.
Just north of De Queen, The heat was enough that the sunscreen I'd placed on my forehead a few hours prior mixed with sweat and dripped down into my eyes. If you've never had that happen, let me tell you that's an experience. The pain is completely immobilizing. You cannot possibly keep your eyes open. Every time you open your eyes it's as though you're being jabbed with a hot knife and your body reactively closes them again before you have a chance to resist.
Unfortunately, I was moving along at 60 mph on a twisty mountain road with traffic. There was no way I could stop without getting run over. There were no shoulders. I was starting to panic. Then, by the grace of God I came around a corner and noticed a parking lot on the north end of De Queen. I pulled in as fast as I could (I don't even think I hit the brake until I was in the lot; thankfully it was empty.)
I got off the bike and sat in the shade, wiping my eyes the best I could with my shirt. After a few minutes the pain subsided. Man, I hate it when that happens! I had another sunscreen in the eyes incident two years prior on my way back from Yellowstone. Thankfully this time around there was nobody looking to make trouble. You'll have to read that blog for more info.
In De Queen, highway 71 branches to the east for 7 or 8 miles until it swings south again heading towards Texarkana. The stretch of highway between De Queen and Texarkana is not very scenic at all, especially considering the mountains from which I had just come.
Once again fatigue and the heat were taking it's toll. I had finished my ice water and was getting thirsty again. I had a planned gas stop in Texarkana just a few miles up the road, so I decided to press on and rest with a cold drink at the gas station.
Finally, I reached the border. Texas: a state so big it needs two welcome signs.
Once I reached Texarkana, my map was useless. I had to get to highway 59 heading south west out of town, but my map just had a big dot for Texarkana. Well, I figured Texarkana can't be that big, right? I should be able to just head through town and find my way to that highway.
As I weaved through the back streets, I came across a corner with a couple of gas stations. I decided that this place was as good as any to fill up. I pulled into one station, which didn't want to accept my credit card at the pump. Yet another pay-at-the-pump incident! After unsuccessfully messing with it for a minute, I decided that I would just go across the street to another station.
I pulled in to the second station, and pulled up at the pump. An attendant came out and asked me if I knew that was a full-service pump. I had no idea anyone had full-service pumps anymore! Well, the last thing I wanted to do was to sit on the bike while somebody else fills my tank, so I just pulled around to a different pump. That's when I noticed that this station didn't have pay-at-the-pump. Oh well, at this point I just filled up rather than moving again. While filling, I started to look around and realized that I had wandered into a rather undesirable area of town. That always makes one pause for thought.
Once filled, I went into the station to pay and grab a cold soda. That's when I noticed the station didn't have any sodas. This was a real old-fashioned service station with full service and actual repair bays. Wow! Haven't seen one of those since I was a kid. Speaking of kids, the kid behind the counter had no idea how to get me to highway 59.
I decided to get back on the bike and just keep exploring. I figured if I keep heading southwest through town, eventually I'll see a sign for 59. Sure enough, a few miles away after riding through a very seedy looking area of Texarkana, I came across highway 59.
My route was to take me down to Queen City, TX before I headed south east into Louisiana. The highway between Texarkana and Queen City was in good repair, and traffic moved along at a good clip. The heat was intense. At this time it was around 4:00, right in the peak of the day's heat.
I still was in need of a drink and a rest off the bike. At Queen City, I saw a convenience store that looked promising and pulled over. I bought a soda and a pack of mini-doughnuts for now, and a large bottle of water for the road. The air conditioning felt good, and they had a small bench so I sat and rested for a few minutes. A couple of young guys came in were acting kind of suspicious. They kept looking around and looking at me. I was beginning to suspect that they were going to try and shoplift something (or worse). I sat there stared at them down as they got more and more visibly nervous. Finally, one of them motioned to the other and they walked out of the store. I either saved the store some money, or I cost them a customer. Not sure which. Generally I don't consider myself very intimidating, but I hadn't shaved or showered that day and was covered in leather, dirt and bugs (not necessarily in that order) so it put on a good front.
After a few minutes of resting, I left the air conditioned comfort of the store and embarked on the last leg of this day's journey. As I walked out the door, the heat of the day hit me like a blast furnace. I headed out of town, and as I swung southeast towards Louisiana, I passed a bank that had the temperature displayed on its sign. The current temp read 106. This caused me to laugh out loud at the insanity of my journey. I mean, I've been riding in the heat all day in 100+ temperatures, it's humid as all get-out and I'm getting ready to sleep in a tent! Maybe my wife is right: I might be nuts.
As I passed into Louisiana the scenery began to get beautiful again.
I passed through an area that had tons of oil rigs going. Those are a non-existent species in South Dakota, so I had to stop and take a picture.
I went through a swampy area. I'm not sure if it's like this all the time or if this was the result of flooding, but either way I thought it was pretty.
The road was curvy and bordered by trees. It was twisty enough to be fun, but not so scribbled that I had to reduce my speed. While my rest stop had revived me, the heat of the day was still taking its toll and I was starting to look forward to stopping for the night. So I was glad to be able to enjoy the road, yet still make good time.
Heading east on highway 2 I could see a large figure looming in the distance. As I got closer, I could see it was a huge bridge. It was tall enough to allow barge traffic through on the river below. As I got closer, I stopped and snapped a picture. I wish I had gotten even closer before stopping, as the picture doesn't do justice as to how big that thing looked in real life. Of course, it doesn't help that I don't like heights. I don't even wear two pairs of socks...
I made it over the bridge, which actually turned out to be a rush. Being up that high is scary, yet exciting once your brain figures out you're not going to die. It's weird, but riding up mountains doesn't bother me. Riding over tall bridges or standing on high ledges does. Of course, I guess that's why they call a phobia an "irrational" fear.
At Plain Dealing (do you ever wonder how some towns get their name?) I took a shortcut on highway 157. I did this by looking at a map and seeing that it angled north east and would be a shorter route to highway 371. As it turned out, this was a great decision. 157 was a very fun road with lots of twists and turns and beautiful views. Of course, in South Dakota we don't have much for trees so for me any view where I can see a tree is a beautiful view!
At highway 371 I went north towards Magnolia and crossed the border back into Arkansas. The road straightened out, but at least there were trees on either side of me.
I had campsite reservations at Logoly state park, which is about 5 miiles north of Magnolia. I came into Magnolia from the west. As I passed through town I kept an eye out for interesting restauraunts or attractions. I thought it might be nice to catch a movie after dinner and enjoy a few hours of air conditioning. Well, I didn't see a theater, but I did see an interesting BBQ place among the restaurants.
I found Logoly a couple miles down a lonely road where I swear I could hear banjo music in the distance.
I pulled into the park and found the park office building. It was about 150 yards back from the parking lot. There was a children's party of some sort going on at the recreation area in front of the office. It was like everything stopped as I walked by up to the office. Apparently they don't see too many bikers in this area.
Once at the office building, I discovered that it closed at 5:30. It was currently about 5:40 PM, so I had missed them by just a few minutes. Had I known the office hours ahead of time I could have adjusted my schedule accordingly. Also posted on signs all over the office and park was that campers absolutely, must, without-a-doubt, don't even think about it, register at the office before occupying a camping site.
Well, I had registered and paid for a campsite over the internet several weeks earlier. I walked back to the bike and decided to look through the park. Maybe I could find a park ranger or something and explain my plight.
I began to ride through the park, then realized that the road ended at a cul-de-sac about 200 yard beyond the parking lot. Apparently Logoly is a small park. Looking through the campsite area, there were only six sites total, and all of them were empty.
I figured that since I had paid for a site and had my receipt on me, the worse that could happen would be that the ranger would come along and tell me to move my tent to another site, but even that was not likely. I picked out a site and set up camp.
The heat was still intense and hauling my gear to the site had the sweat just pouring off of my body. At least I was in a wooded area so the sun wasn't directly beating down on me. A shower would feel wonderful, but I was guessing that the showers were all the way back at the office and I didn't feel like hiking back there only to discover that they were locked too.
Instead, I pulled out a package of baby-wipes I had in my bag (for emergencies such as this) and gave myself a sponge bath. That and a a clean set of clothes made me feel like a new man, at least for about 10 minutes until I was drenched with sweat again. At least this was a fresh layer of filth.
I called my wife to report in, then decided to head back to the Back Yard Bar-B-Q in Magnolia. What caught my eye on the way through town was that they served hand-dipped Blue Bell ice cream (because apparently machine dipped ice cream tastes completely different?). Now Blue Bell is a sacred thing for a lot of people in the south. I've tried it and it's OK, but frankly I didn't see what the big deal is. It was good, but it was no Ben & Jerry's. Anyway, ice cream was sounding really good.
The service was terrible, as it mostly was staffed by teenage girls who were more interested in talking amongst themselves than serving the customer. The food however, was excellent. I ordered the beef brisket sandwich with potato salad and a glass of ice water. My mouth is still watering as I remember that sandwich.
I ate my food and caught up on news events on a TV they had going. When I was done, I decided that I was too full for ice cream. I also decided I was too tired to make it through a movie, so I gave up on that idea. I topped off my water bottle and headed back to the campsite.
I decided I had better gas up tonight, rather than wait to do it in the morning as I would either have to back-track five miles into Magnolia, or risk that I would come across a gas station not too much further down the road.
I pulled into one station, and once again had problems with the pay-at-the-pump. After going in and out of the station and talking to the cashier, I decided I was working too hard to give them my money, and went across the street to a different station.
Once I was gassed up, I headed back to Logoly. At this point in time it was around 8 PM. I was the only person in the entire park. I was way too tired to do any hiking or exploring, and besides the heat and humidity would have pushed me over the edge. So I just sat at the picnic table at my campsite and read a book.
One thing I marvelled at over the course of the whole trip was the lack of mosquitoes. There were plenty of other bugs flying and crawling around, but none of these fanged menaces. I had purchased a big can of Deep Woods Off prior to leaving, but I never even cracked the seal on it. Back in South Dakota, when it gets this hot and humid you need a tennis racquet to ward them off!
A few minutes later, a park ranger came through. He stopped and walked over to my campsite. His first statement was "When I saw a tent that big I wasn't expecting to see a motorcycle parked nearby!" I didn't think my tent was unusually large, but I told him that it folded up nice and small for travel. We discussed my camping situation, and I told him my story of arriving and finding the office locked, but that I had paid for a site over the internet.
He looked puzzled for a minute, then said, "wow, I've never had anyone pay over the internet before. I wonder how that works?" I showed him my payment printout and we chatted for a while. He said that they don't get too many campers in July with the heat and everything. He told me that I have nothing to worry about, that the only animals in the area are deer, raccoons and armadillos. He said that I would definitely hear armadillos scurrying around in the night but that they won't bother me.
He then proceeded to tell me a story about some campers who earlier in the year were being hassled in the middle of the night by some people who came out of the woods, and that they had searched but never caught anyone. "But you'll probably be OK." I'm really not sure what he was trying to do by telling me this story.
He then asked what time I would be leaving in the morning, and I said that I hoped to be on the road no later than 7 AM. He said he normally locks the gate at night and opens it in the morning, but that he'd just shut the gate and leave it unlocked so I could get out. "If you could open the gate in the morning when you leave that would save me a trip." I told him I could do that, and he wished me well and left.
I read for a few more minutes, then decided to try and get some sleep. It wasn't even 9 PM yet, but I was wiped out. I laid in my tent for a while wearing nothing but shorts, but was having a hard time getting comfortable in the heat. I read for a while longer, then started to get drowsy.
I had turned off my light and was drifting off to sleep when I heard footsteps. I quickly jolted up, grabbed my flashlight and pointed it out the window. Perhaps the hooligans in the woods had returned? No, it was the park ranger, who had come back to tell me that he figured out how to work the computer and I had indeed paid over the internet. Well, that was worth a scare. I'm guessing the park ranger doesn't have much of a social life and grabs conversations whenever he can find them.
I finally went back to sleep, and was awakened in the night by a wolf howl. From the sound I guessed it to be maybe 100 yards away, if that. I laid silent and frozen in my tent. I could hear the animal trotting through the leaves across the campground, then it howled again. I could tell it had moved to a position a few campsites down from me. After a minute I heard it trot into the woods and never heard from it again.
I slept pretty well considering the heat. Sure enough, every once in a while an armadillo would scurry by and wake me up, but I would always go right back to sleep.
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This page last updated on 06/28/2018